Nonfiction 14

Ocean wave mechanics: applications in marine structures by V. Sundar

By V. Sundar

Ocean Wave Mechanics: purposes in Marine Structures

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A finer classification is according to apparent shape, relative water depth and origin. According to apparent shape, waves can be classified as progressive and standing waves. Progressive waves may be oscillatory or solitary. According to relative water depth, two types namely small amplitude waves and finite amplitude waves exist. Finite amplitude waves may be further classified as intermediate depth waves (Stokes’ wave) and shallow water waves (Cnoidal waves). Fig. 2 shows classification of waves as per its frequency.

Cyclonic storms are sometimes accompanied by tidal waves with heights of 5 m and sometimes hit 20 km inland with wind speed of 150 kmph. The Indian National Centre For Ocean Information Services (INCOIS) has categorized the entire Indian coast into 4 zones. 1. Very high risk zones, VHRZ (surge height > 5 m) 2. High risk Zone, HRZ (surge height between 3 and 5 m) 3. 5 and 3 m) 4. 5 m) The coastal areas and off-shore islands of Bengal and adjoining Bangladesh are the most storm-surge-prone (~10–13 m), the east coast of India between Paradip and Balasore in Orissa (~5–7 m) and the Andhra coast between Bapatla and Kakinada holding estuaries of two major rivers, Krishna and Godavari (~ 5–7 m), are classified as VHRZ.

G Problem. 7 The velocity components in a two-dimensional flow field for an incompressible fluid are y3 x3 − x 2 + 2 x − log t and v = e t − + xy 2 − 2 y 3 3 Show that these functions represent an irrotational flow. u = i) ii) Obtain an expression for stream function y. Solution: i) ∂u ∂v = 2 − 2 xy ; = 2 xy − 2 ∂x ∂y 40 Ocean Wave Mechanics For a two-dimensional flow of incompressible fluid, the continuity eq. 5) is expressed as ∂u ∂v + = 0 ∂x ∂y By substituting for the two terms, we have 2 − 2xy + 2xy – 2 = 0 Thus, continuity equation is satisfied.

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